Well, not really. But we did do four countries in 24 hours.
I don't think I have been more stressed out about a trip. It wasn't that E was making things difficult. It was all me. I am not used to planning every bit of a trip because I'm more of a walk-around-and-get-lost kind of tourist, but I really wanted to make sure everything was done because I wanted E to have a good time. Also, I was trying to keep things within our budget. FYI, the bf now thinks I'm a mean little woman who can't stop calculating the cents.
Our first stop was Sapporo, Hokkaido. E had never experienced snow so I thought it would be a good way to start.
If only we could get there.
Our Air China flight to Beijing (then a connecting flight to Sapporo) was delayed by three hours due to bad weather in the Chinese capital and that meant we would miss our connecting flight. When we got to Beijing, we had to wait forever for our bags to be out. After that, we headed to the Air China counter for them to re-route us on the next available flight out. Since they only have one flight to Sapporo daily, we had to consider other options. The best one was another Air China flight to Seoul, and then to Sapporo via Korean Air. Despite the additional transfer, E was chirpy when he saw the fantastically new plane and in-flight entertainment system Korean Air had to offer (and the pretty attendants, yes).
So there - 21 hours of travel, four countries (including Singapore), and we finally arrived in Sapporo.
SAPPORO
The train into the city was a breeze. Once there, we were greeted by streets covered in powdery white snow. I reckon E was too cold to enjoy the snow, which was a wee bit disappointing, but now he can say he has seen snow and it was with me!
I'm going to skip pass the shopping bits, but you can go ahead and (correctly) assume that we did plenty. After all, Japan is famed for offering up superb designs and quality. And E is a renowned shopaholic.
For me, the best time in Hokkaido was when we ventured out of Sapporo city to Hoheikyo Onsen. The scenic drive there, the amazing hot spring, the view while you soaked up natural minerals and the sight of forests and mountains... It was breathtaking. We got to nap there after lunch before taking the free shuttle back to the city - lazy never felt so good.
Other Sapporo highlights:
- Building snowmen with E
- Those incredibly delicious crabs we had
- Our pathetic attempt at a snowball fight
- Standing out on the street together, watching the snow fall, and just holding hands
CROSS COUNTRY
With the JR Pass we bought, we were able to travel from Sapporo to Kyoto easily. Only downside was the travel time (12 hours -_-), and the fact that we had to change trains three times. Having to worry about missing the next train was NOT fun. That said, E was always reassuring and somehow he managed to calm the worry wart in me.
The weather and landscape changed almost abruptly as we travelled south. In the beginning, we saw white powdery snow that fell and gathered in too many inches. Everything was covered in a stark lightness. It was as if the heavens had descended and the clouds were at our feet. We blistered passed tall and majestic trees that were mostly bald, but bore the fruits of the season on their arms - like cotton in full bloom. Branches, rooftops, and mountains - nothing escaped the graces of the descending whiteness. All around us was a willing resignation to the snow, which eventually covered everything like icing sugar being dusted on a cake.


And then, almost suddenly the whiteness gave way to greens and blues and browns. As if awoken from a brief nap, Nature spilled its colours onto the trees, rivers, and stunning mountains in the distance. There were always mountains in sight (I loved that); some snowcapped, others with their peaks blurred by clouds. The white and grey fluffs hung low around the mountain peaks with such a heavy tangibility, much like a pregnant promise to the land. Perhaps this is why people scale mountains. Aren't these giant mounds much like stairways to that mythical place where earth and heaven meet?
KYOTO
Our hotel was most thoughtful. They served guests free hot noodles every night, and that bowl of pipping hot goodness was the perfect welcome. Yes, I did go back for the noodles the next night.
Because we were near the main train station, everything we passed was very modern. I loved that we were so near trains and buses, but I wanted a little more culture in Kyoto. We didn't have a lot of time in Kyoto, so we decided to make a couple of temple visits, and then balance that out with some shopping and city explorations over the three days.
We saw Fushimi Inari and Kinkakuji. I preferred the former. I loved that there was a trail you could take to get farther up the mountain (in better weather, we probably would have attempted it), and I really enjoyed walking the little streets around the temple. The sight of mountains in the distance also contributed to the experience. The juxtaposition of modern life against a backdrop of nature isn't always my favourite postcard picture, but somehow the little towns in Japan make things look... unintrusive. Perhaps the Japanese have the secret to striking the right balance.
Bus-riding and walking around Kyoto was very gratifying. It was a completely touristy thing to do, but I really enjoyed the experience. Again, maybe it was just because I had the right company.
Other Kyoto highlights:
- E singing Teriyaki Boyz's Tokyo Drift
- Yoshida Steak House. Awesome meat. Bit harsh on the pockets though.
- Geishas who walked really fast
- Garb provided by the hotel
- Hotel's rooftop onsen
HAKONE
This was supposed to be our nature stop. We were going to see Mount Fuji and all that. We bought a two-day transport pass for too much money and were going to take the train, the tram, the cable car, and the ropeway to get to Lake Ashi.
But none of that happened because it rained like a bitch the next day.
I have thus convinced myself that the ginormous snowcapped mountain we saw on the way to Hakone is Fuji and that I haven't missed much. Whatever.
Hakone highlight:
- Big hotel room with a hot spring bath on our balcony
TOKYO
The last time I was in Tokyo, I remember I wasn't exactly dying to do much sightseeing. The roar of this big city can get a little overwhelming, especially since we were staying near Shinjuku Station; with millions of commuters daily, it is the world's busiest train station.
E wanted ramen so I found one and we somehow managed to find our way there. Menya Musashi, aka Ramen Supreme, was sinfully good. E could not stop slurping and making yummy noises. The flavour in the broth was so rich and tantalising. My dipping noodles came with a sauce that was out of this world too. E and I both loved (everything) the handmade noodles that carried the signature tastes so well. It helped too that the restaurant had a really authentic local feel about it. The servers were energetic and broke into cheers and chants often. Ramen will never be the same again.
It was our good luck that we managed to meet my friend, Danli, on Christmas day. She brought us to a beautiful and interesting district - Naka-meguro. This little gem has so much charm, you'll be bowled over by it. That evening, Danli brought us to Tsukishima for monjya and okonomiyaki. I know what you're thinking - what is monjya? Honestly, I have no idea. It's a big mess of ingredients, but it's SOOO GOOODDD!!!
Mindblowing food, new discoveries, and great company - a splendid way to spend Christmas!
We got back to the hotel at about midnight and started packing since we had to leave the hotel by 5am. I wish we had more time for the food and more, but I had to surrender custody of E to work by the 27th.
Other Tokyo highlights:
- E pulling me towards him at Naka-meguro, looking into my eyes, and telling me how he likes the area because it's so romantic *swoons*
- Meiji Jingu
- Shopping in Harajuku
- Dumpling shop on Onden Street we discovered by chance
- Urban trekking
- Tokyo Banana hunt
- I bought a Fujifilm Instax 8!
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E and I kept talking about how amazing the service is in Japan. How long will it take for that kind of standard to reach Singapore? Unfortunately, it isn't quite the kind of problem you can solve with an airticket.
My favourite memories - whenever E and I share something nice (food, view, etc.), we'd turn to each other, and just smile/say that we love each other. I so cherish our little moments like these and I pray that the rest of my life would be feverishly peppered with them.
E's favourite memory of Japan? Probably the bidets in every toilet.